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Prague Offre de Dernière Minute: |
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FORUM & ARTICLES
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2007-06-23 23:11:57 |
| autor: Virginia Rootkie |
| Lookiing for apartment not far from Savic Hotel on Jilska St. for 2 persons from Sept. 22 to 25, 2007. |
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WHAT IS DOING IN Prague |
2006-06-21 13:03:05 |
| autor: JEREMY BRANSTEN |
Only six months ago, entire districts of Prague lay under water in the most damaging floods the Czech capital had seen in centuries. Many visitors canceled travel plans, and art historians expressed concern about the fate of Prague's architectural riches.
But local authorities and citizens worked swiftly through the winter to restore their city's splendor, and they have largely succeeded. As spring approaches, besides some damaged facades in the riverside Kampa district and restoration that continues in the metro, flood damage in the historic center is hard to detect.
For foreigners, visiting Prague this season brings the added bonus of less crowded sights and residents eager to show their city in its best light. Cultural life is in full swing and offers a palette of visual as well as aural treats, in a city famed for its musical tradition.
Events
Through March 16, the Days of European Film festival will screen a varied selection of new movies from the European Union nations. For the first time, films from the 10 E.U. candidate states will also be included, so visitors can see Finnish cinema noir or a Bulgarian comedy. Many films have English subtitles. Tickets ($2.35, at 30 crowns to the dollar) and showings are at the Aero cinema, Biskupcova 31, telephone (420-2) 7177-1349, and at Lucerna cinema, Vodickova 36, (420-2) 2421-6972.
The Municipal Library (Mestska Knihovna), Marianske Namesti 1 (around the corner from Valentinska Street), (420-2) 2231-0489, is host to a ''Slovak Photography 1925-2000'' through March 30. It traces the evolution of photography over three generations in what used to be the eastern half of Czechoslovakia. Subjects range from Milos Alexander Bazovsky's bucolic country-life series from between the wars to Martin Kollar's post-independence series on suburbs springing up around big cities. Open Tuesday to Sunday; admission, $2.
On April 3, the saxophonist Branford Marsalis stars at the Agharta Prague Jazz Festival, www.arta.cz, in the Lucerna Music Bar, Vodickova 36, Prague 1. Tickets, $4 to $14, are available weekdays through Ticketpro, Salvatorska 10; (420-2) 2481-6020. The festival runs throughout this year.
The Prague Writers' Festival at the Theater Minor, Vodickova 6, (420-2) 2223-1351, www.pwf.pragonet.cz, will bring together some of the world's leading authors in a series of readings and discussions (translated in English and Czech) April 6 to 10. This year's event honors the late William S. Burroughs. The authors Arundhati Roy, Amos Oz and Art Spiegelman, and the playwright Sam Shepard are scheduled to attend. Tickets, $8.35.
Every year, the defining cultural event of the season is the Prague Spring classical music festival, which always opens with ''My Country'' (''Ma Vlast'') by the 19th-century composer Bedrich Smetana, in the Smetana concert hall of the Art Nouveau Municipal House (Obecni Dum), Namesti Republiky 5; (420-2) 2200-2336, fax (420-2) 2232-2501. This year's opener is May 12 at 8 p.m.; the festival runs to June 3. Performers are to include Kurt Masur conducting the Orchestre National de France on May 25 and 25, and Michael Tilson Thomas with the San Francisco Symphony on May 23 and 24, both in Dvorak's Hall at the Rudolfinum, Alsovo Nabrezi 12. Tickets, $12 to $100, sell out fast, but can be bought ahead from (420-2) 9632-9999, fax (420-2) 9632-888, or www.festival.cz.
Sightseeing
Prague Castle, or Hradcany -- the citadel, begun in the 10th century, that evolved into a complex of palaces, gardens and churches -- continues to provide the ideal vantage point from which to view the city. One ticket ($6.65) covers admission to the main sites, including St. Vitus's Cathedral (begun in the 14th century); the Old Royal Palace, with its ceremonial Vladislav Hall, dating from the 16th century; and the 10th-century St. George's Basilica, the oldest structure in the castle, with its Romanesque arches. Open daily.
Walking down Nerudova Street, lined with Renaissance burgher houses and a few too many tourist shops, brings you to Malostranske Namesti, the main square of the Little Quarter (Mala Strana), which is dominated by the green dome of St. Nicholas Church. Built in the first half of the 18th century by the father-and-son team of Christoph and Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer, St. Nicholas's marbled interior is the largest and most ornate of the city's Baroque churches. Open daily; $1.
Crossing the medieval Charles Bridge over the Vltava River brings you to the Old Town. Down Karlova and Jilska Streets is Old Town Square and Old Town Hall, (420-2) 2448-2629. Its tower has a 15th-century astronomical clock, from which revolving carved figures of the Twelve Apostles emerge every hour. The observation deck offers a panorama of red-tile roofs and the castle. Open Tuesday to Sunday; $1.
The old Jewish Quarter (Josefov), bounded by Kaprova and Parizska Streets, is named after the comparatively enlightened Joseph II, whose 1781 Edict of Tolerance permitted Jews to live in other parts of the city. Even afterward, however, Jewish life continued to center on this area.
The Old-New Synagogue (Staronova Synagoga), Cervena 2, dates from the 13th century and is Europe's oldest functioning synagogue. Inside is the wooden seat once occupied by Rabbi Loew, who according to legend created the fearsome Golem, a life-size mud or clay monster that came to life and ran amok on the Sabbath and had to be destroyed; the Rabbi's grave can be found in the Old Jewish Cemetery nearby.
Also near is the resplendent interior of the newly restored Spanish Synagogue (Spanelska Synagoga), Vezenska 1, decorated in neo-Moorish style with deep blue and earth tones edged in gold. Common tickets covering all synagogues and museums in the Jewish Quarter plus the cemetery cost $15, and are sold at all the sites, which are open Sunday to Friday; (420-2) 2481-9456.
A downtown attraction well worth a detour -- doubly so if you are traveling with children -- is the Prague City Museum (Muzeum Hlavniho Mesta Prahy), Na Porici 52; (420 2) 2481-6772, www.muzeumprahy.cz. The museum, next to the Florenc metro station, houses the impressive model of Prague by Antonin Langweil. From 1826 to 1834, Langweil, a librarian, created a precise three-dimensional model of the city out of hand-painted cardboard. The result, 20 by 11 feet, captured in miniature detail every brick of every house standing at the time, from the Old Town to the Little Quarter and up to the Castle. Admission: $1.35.
Where to Stay
The diminutive Hotel U Zlute Boty (At the Yellow Shoe), Jansky Vrsek let's 11, (420- 2) 5753-2269, fax (420-2) 5753-4134, www.zlutabota.cz, is a newly restored Renaissance house in the picturesque tangle of lanes below Prague Castle. Its eight rooms boast such period details as painted wooden ceilings, but have Internet connections and large bathrooms. Doubles until March 31 are $110, thereafter $140, with breakfast.
Biskupsky Dum (The Bishop's House), Drazickeho Namesti 6/62, (420-2) 5753-2320, fax (420-2) 5753-1840, www.hotelbishopshouse.com, offers 43 comfortable rooms with bathtubs or showers in two 1843 buildings on opposite sides of a small square, just steps from the Charles Bridge. Doubles are $160, with breakfast.
Budget: Five minutes' walk from Wenceslas Square, Penzion Balbin, Balbinova 26, (420-2) 2225-0657, fax (420-2) 2225-0660, www.balbin.cz, is a no-frills bed-and-breakfast and an oasis of quiet cleanliness. Each of the 17 whitewashed rooms is equipped with satellite TV, phone and bathroom. Doubles are $60 until March 31, then $87.
Hotel Anna, Budecska 17, (420-2) 2251-3111, fax (420-2) 2251-5158, has 23 clean, functional rooms in a converted turn-of-the-century apartment building in the fashionable Vinohrady neighborhood, just outside the tourist zone. Rooms have modern furniture and bright-colored bedding. Doubles, $83 until March 15 and $103 afterward, with breakfast.
Luxury: A miniature 16th-century fortress on its own promontory, around a small, private courtyard, now contains Hotel U Zlate Studne (At the Golden Well), U Zlate Studne 166/4, (420-2) 5701-1213, fax (420-2) 5753-3320, www.zlatastudna.cz. Nestled between Prague Castle and the terraced Ledeburg Gardens, it has 17 plush rooms and 3 suites with antique reproductions. Guests can have morning coffee in the top-floor dining room, contemplating the red-tiled roofs of the Lesser Quarter below. Doubles, $160 until March 16, $260 thereafter.
Where to Eat
Mlynec, Novotneho Lavka 9, (420-2) 2108-2208, fax (420-2) 2108-2391, is a converted water mill where window tables offer a view of the Charles Bridge. The nouvelle cuisine features fish and a fusion of French, Czech and Asian cooking traditions. The small and frequently changing menu offers specialties like grilled yellowfin tuna with shallots and polenta wrapped in seaweed ($16.50), or deer medallions with wild mushrooms and Kenya beans ($21.50). Dinner for two with wine is about $100. Reservations recommended. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
Hanil, Slavikova 24, telephone and fax (420-2) 2271-5867, is among the best of Prague's growing number of Asian restaurants. This Korean-Japanese place offers some of the freshest sushi in town and tastiest Korean meat specialties, and the friendly waiters are keen to advise. Highlights include the kimchi appetizer ($3), and a beef-based shabu shabu soup ($18), cooked at the table; for a splurge, there is a sushi-sashimi-maki set for two ($48). Dinner for two with beer, around $60. Reservations recommended. Open Monday to Saturday for lunch and dinner; Sunday, dinner only.
Drawing on the success of their original restaurant by the same name, the owners of Kogo, Na Prikope 22 (in the back of the Slovansky Dum Mall), (420-2) 2145-1259, serve fresh and authentic Italian cuisine at reasonable prices in a trendy atrium setting. Specialties include risotto con frutti di mare ($8) or pappardelle con sugo all'anatra (pappardelle with duck sauce, $5.50). Dinner for two with wine, around $55. Lunch and dinner daily.
Steaks are what they do best at U Bile Kravy (At the White Cow), Rubesova 10, (420-2) 2423-9570. The owners breed Charolais cows at their farm in Moravia, ensuring the meat is organic and tender. A blackboard at the entrance of this home-style restaurant, with wood beams and checkered tablecloths, lists the particulars of the day's meat, including the pedigree of the cow of origin. This is a good place to sample quality Czech wine. Dinner for two with wine, $50. Lunch and dinner weekdays, weekends dinner only.
Parents and kids will feel welcome at Cantina, Ujezd 38, (420-2) 5731-7173, for inexpensive but authentic Mexican cooking amid brick-tiled floors and Mariachi music. Make a meal of the chicken fajita ($6.45) or burrito special ($4). Dinner for two, around $25. Open for lunch and dinner daily.
JEREMY BRANSTEN is a senior editor at Radio Free Europe/Radio Liberty in Prague. |
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